Highly acclaimed as one of Park City’s best restaurants, it was a bit underwhelming. Located on the 2nd story of a main street building, the restaurant is a large, industrial type open area, with an additional seating area next to the windows overlooking the street. It felt more banquet hall style than inviting. Visiting on a weekend night, music was provided by a solo vocalist strumming a guitar.
Our greeting was average, and the waiter a little stiff. We understand this is high society Park City and you are used to Sundance movie-star types, however could it hurt to smile and loosen up.
We started with the Buffalo Tartare. Served with red wine potato chips it did not pair well. The salty chip overpowered the buffalo. Standing alone, the buffalo was just ok with overpowering onion seasoning and almost nonexistent “fresh” horseradish. We can say the homemade multi-grain bread did deliver in flavor. Score!
For mains, we tried seared foie gras atop the 44 Farms 20 oz Bone-In Ribeye Steak, and the Trio of Wild Game- comprised of North American Buffalo, Venison, and Elk. Let’s talk about the fact that we still have failed to discover a decently prepared foie gras in Utah yet, we had high hopes River Horse would be it. The Ribeye was cooked perfectly to our medium-rare order. The best protein of the night was the Venison- 110% spot-on- kudos to the chef on this dish.
Ditching the meat, we ordered a side of Summer Vegetable Risotto from the vegetarian menu. They had us hooked with wild mushrooms and grilled ramps, however this dish simply put- lacked flavor.
Was it nice? Yes. Was it good food? Yes. Was it great food that you talk about? I don’t think so. Even the wine list was just ok. We enjoyed a bottle of Chateau Montelena from Calistoga, CA. The wine has a black cherry nose and taste, with a layered spice finish. This Cabernet paired well with the proteins.
Did we expect too much? Everyone at our 5 star hotel raved about Riverhorse. Overall this was not some “Wow” fireworks and amazement show. It felt more, hmm, now we can say we have been there, but not dying to go back. Shoulder season in Park City or not, an 16 year recipient of the Forbes Travel Guide Four Star Award should have been more of an experience. Not jonesing to get back anytime soon.
What we love.
The proteins were all cooked to perfection.
540 Main Street
Park City, UT 84060
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